promotes wound healing, speeds up
cell regeneration, and has a keratolytic (skin-softening) effect.
.
In the range of derivatives from olive oil studied and produced
by B&T, there is also a water soluble olive oil which has
important peculiarities. Because of its chemical composition,
it is easily soluble in water, in alcohol and in the major part
of organic solvents, and it can therefore be employed in many
formulations.
OLIVEM300 is
soluble in many oils both of vegetal and mineral origin, it
can be dispersed in liquid fatty alcohols and in synthetical
esters from fatty acids. It is completely odorless, clear,
pale yellow; its low acidity value makes it compatible even
with the most delicate active principles.
Thanks to its origin from olive oil, that among all natural
oils is th most similar to human sebum, OLIVEM300 performs
a very high skin compatibility. This leads to a very strong
emolliency power, together with a very safe action on our
skin. Our skin, in fact, is somehow protected from delipidification
due to aggressive cleansing by the rebuilding of the hydro-lipidic
film of our skin.
The new important characteristics
of OLIVEM300 are:
- The emollient and lubricant peculiarities of olive oil
promote an enriching effect which is very appreciated in
shampoos, toiletries
and personal care formulation.
- It reduces the irritating action of the compounds of
surfactant system.
- When enclosed in toiletries formulations, it does not
reduce the foaming power of the other surfactants.
- In shampoos,
foam baths and toiletries, it usually reveals a thickening
action, and it does not reduce the viscosity of the formulations.
- It is endowed with a good solubilizing power, which is
very appreciated in order to disperse oil, perfumes and
liposoluble active principles in lotions and toiletries.
It may also be applied to make up removing products, because
it has a strong solubilizing activity both on water based
make up, and also on water resistant make up.
- Because of its good skin
and eye compliance, it can be used as an oily compound that
allows the absorption of lipophilic active principles in
bath and massage formulations.
- Its intermediate HLB value (11) makes OLIVEM300 a good
emulsifier or co-emilsifier in O\W systems, especially in
oil free products synergically with OLIVEM700 (PEG-4 OLIVATE).
In Fact, if OLIVEM700 is used as autoemulsifying system,
as the only source of fats, OLIVEM300 gives to this kind
of oil free structure a very creamy and nice appearance,
due to the common origin of both products from olive oil,
performing a very high skin compliance.
FOAMING ACTIVITY
OLIVEM300, in opposition to most of the similar products
used in toiletries, absolutely does not affect the foaming
activity of the most commonly used surfactants. It can be
enclosed in shampoos, foam baths and toiletries without
reducing neither the foaming activity, nor the viscosity
of the formulations. On the contrary, its strong sinergical
action with OLIVEM400 (SODIUM PEG-7 CARBOXYLATE), creates
a foam even higher, as remarked in the following graphic.
Solutions containing 10% active washing substance are compared
with the same diluition containing an additional 2% of OLIVEM300.
Method to determine foam height is according to Ross&Miles
procedure. A wide pH range has been evaluated, as remarked,
and the foaming activity of the surfactant system (OLIVEM400
in the following chart) is enhanced by the presence of OLIVEM300.
Quality of the foam is also remarkable, since it is extremely
creamy, small bubbled and long lasting.
The same behavior with the foam observed with OLIVEM400 has
been observed with Cocoamide DEA. Again, active washing substance
was 10% in the sample without OLIVEM 300, and the evaluation
has been done with the Ross&Miles method.
BIODEGRADABILITY
The determination of biodegradability has been made according
to the CEE Regulation N. 82\242. The results are satisfying:
OLIVEM300 is a biodegradable over 90%.
VISCOSITY
OLIVEM300 does not reduce the viscosity in formulations where
the primary surfactant is composed by SLES. Besides, OLIVEM
300 increases the viscosity in formulations where the surfactant
system is composed by the corboxylate alkylether, both as
a primary or a secondary surfactant. In fact, the new trend
is now directed towards the increasing use of corboxylates
and other non-ionic products instead of anionic sulphate and
solfonate surfactants. Important is the association with OLIVEM400,
which is a carboxylate surfactant in which the fat portion
derives from olive oil, and has therefore many chemical affinities
with OLIVEM300.
TOXICITY
Skin irritation has been tested on both human volunteers (Schwartz's
PATCH TEST) and in vitro (Red Blood Cell Test). OLIVEM300,
such as all B&T products, has not been tested on animal,
according to the new trend of cosmetic products. Considering
the chemical similarity of OLIVEM300 with some compounds that
have been largely tested in the past, the existing data for
chemical analogues allow to define OLIVEM300 as a NON-IRRITANT
and NOT TOXIC.
The primary irritation test has been made using OLIVEM300
as it is, pure product. The test requires the application
of an occlusive patch on the back of 20 healthy, adult volunteers,
and it is left there 48 hours. At the end of this period the
patch is removed and the condition of the skin are evaluated,
once 15 minutes after the patch was removed and again 24 hours
later. Irritation index wsa 0.05 after 15 minutes and 0.05
after 24 hours. This allows us to define the product as a
NON-IRRITANT.
It is very interesting to remark that for surfactants the
patch test employs surfectant in dilution not to run the risk
of causing too much irritancy, while the patch test on OLIVEM300
has been done on pure product, 100%. The very low irritiation
index (none of the panelists tested developed any irritation),
is therefore even more meaningful.
The Red Blood Cell Test can quantify the effects of surfactant
detergents products on the cytoplasmic membranes (hemolysis)
in combination with the damage of liberated cellular protein
(denaturation). Various concentration of test samples are
incubated with a defined quantity of RBC suspension for 10
minutes. At the end of the incubation period, the resulting
supernatant is monitored to evaluate the ability of test samples
to induce hemolysis or denaturation. The relation between
hemolysis and protein denaturation known as Lysis/Denaturation
ratio, is then calculated and may be compared with acute eye
irritancy data.
In Vivo eye irritation In vitro L/D
Not irritant >100
Irritant >0.1
Slight Irritant >10
Very Irritant <0.1
Moderately irritant >1 |
