DESCRIPTION
PENTACARE-NA is a mixture of galactomannanes obtained from seeds
of locust bean gum and hydrolyzed proteins isolated from wheat
gluten. Thanks to the combination of these two components, the
complex of active ingredients on one hand show a high affinity
for the skin and has an immediately perceptible effect. On the
other hand, there is a strong intermolecular attraction between
the polysaccharide and the protein hydrolyzate, what constitutes
the basis for a skin tightening effect. The combination of both
substances in a synergistic ratio leads to an active ingredient
that produces a long lasting skin-tightening effect immediately
after application.
BACKGROUND
Skin-tightening agents have been known for a long time in
the cosmetic industry and are in great demand. These products
produce an immediate tightening effect by forming a film on
the skin. The biological, active agent used most widely as
a lifting agent is serum albumin from animal origin. PENTACARE-NA
has been developed in such a way that the negative properties
of serum albumin (crumbling of the film) are eliminated.
The effect of PENTACARE-NA is obtained by the formation of
a thin visco-elastic film on the skin. This film retracts
after evaporation of water and exerts a tightening effect.
The fine wrinkles are thereby covered and the relief of the
skin is reduced, which leads to measurable and also perceptible
tightening and smoothing effect.
EFFICACY Skin Tightening
We used a non-invasive method of measuring the tightness of
the skin. In an in vivo study performed on 4 test persons.
5% PENTACARE-NA was compared with 5% serum albumin (in a Carbomer
gel formulation). The skin resistance to the aspiration in
the measuring probe (reduction of the penetration depth) was
measured. The single application showed that PENTACARE-NA
produces a clearly measurable tightening effect over a period
of 3 hours. The test also showed that PENTACARE-NA possesses
a skin-tightening activity similar to that of serum albumin.
Surface Smoothing
In the following study, a gel containing 5% PENTACARE-NA was
applied on the temples of 4 test persons. The skin surface
was microscopically analyzed by means of silicone prints.
In the study the fine wrinkles disappeared and the surface
of the skin became smoother. Conclusion
Both in vivo studies show that PENTACARE-NA produces a measurable
skin-tightening effect and visibly reduces the fine wrinkles.
PENTACARE-NA is particularly appropriate for products to be
applied around the eyes or on the face, or as a basis for
make-up products. Possible application forms are gels, masks,
balms, lotions or emulsions.
PENTACARE - IN VIVO STUDY
Summary
A gel formulation containing 5% PENTACARE-NA was applied on
the inner forearm of four volunteers. The tightening effect
was measured in comparison to untreated skin with a suction
method. Results were compared to those of a corresponding
formulation with serum albumin.
AFTER ONE SINGLE APPLICATION PENTACARE-NA PRODUCES A CLEARLY
MEASURABLE TIGHTENING EFFECT OF MORE THAN 10% OVER A PERIOD
OF UP TO THREE HOURS.
Introduction
Tightening activity becomes a more and more important claim
in cosmetic products. For a youthful look, the skin has to
be radiant and smooth.
This report shows that PENTACARE-NA produces an immediate
tightening effect by forming a thin visco-elastic film on
the skin. This film retracts after evaporation of water and
exerts a tightening effect.
MATERIAL AND METHODS
Subjects
Four healthy female volunteers aged between 23 and 36 years
with normal to dry skin, were enlisted. All subjects were
fully aware of all the aspects and the duration of the study.
The normal exclusion criteria were utilized in choosing the
subjects:
- Subjects currently using or having topically used anti-inflammatories,
corticoids or retinoids within the last six months.
- Subjects having had dermabrasion within the last year.
- Subjects with psoriasis, eczema, or atopic dermatitis.
- Subjects currently on test in any other clinical study
for topical or systemic medications or products.
- Pregnant or nursing women.
Substances
The active gel formulations consisted of 93.7% water, 5% PENTACARE-NA,
resp. bovine albumin powder, 1% Carbopol Ultrez 10, and .3%
Phenonip.
Test Principle At t 0:
Volunteers were informed about the operational aspect of the
study and signed a consent form. The subjects were not allowed
to use any cosmetic formulations on the measuring areas 24
hours prior to this study.
After the volunteers were acclimatized for 20 minutes at
24°C and 55% relative humidity, measurements were taken
with the to determine initial values.
Application of the samples in standardized quantities (approximately
3 ml/cm 2 ) on defined test areas (4x2cm) on the inner forearms.
One test area was left untreated and served as control.
At t 30, 60, 90 and 180 minutes:
Measurements were performed and the values were compared to
the initial measurement at time 0.
General:
On each test area 3 measurements were performed and the mean
value was used for calculation.
Method
The measuring principle is based on suction and elongation.
The device generates a negative pressure and the skin area
to be measured is drawn into the aperture of the probe. The
penetration depth of the skin into the aperture is determined
without contact by an optical measuring system. This system
consists of a light emitter and a light acceptor. Two opposing
glass prisms transmit the light from emitter to acceptor.
The light ratio changes proportionally to the penetration
depth of the skin, which depends on the skin elasticity, on
the negative pressure applied and on the measuring time. A
pressure spring in the probe guarantees constant pressure
of the probe on the skin.
Parameters
Room temperature: 24°C, relative humidity 55%
Aperture of probe 2mm, generated a negative pressure: 200mbar
Time of suction: 4s, time of relaxation: 4s
Evaluation
The tightening effect is based on improved firmness of the
skin, which results in a higher resistance to mechanical deformation.
A product with tightening activity is consequently expected
to reduce this deformation caused by negative pressure of
the measuring probe.
Results
To show a tightening activity, the values obtained after application
were compared to their corresponding initial value. The changes
over time were calculated as percentage differences to the
initial value. Changes of the control area were taken into
account.
Conclusion
In this study PENTACARE-NA exerted after one single application
of a gel formulation a clearly measurable tightening effect
of more then 10% over a period of three hours. The test also
showed that the tightening activity is similar to that of
serum albumin.
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